![]() Pull the ground off the metal box.Īnd you have expansion room to blow it out to a MWBC (one more wire) or even pull bigger wire for a subpanel. Very easy pull especially with stranded THWN. Now you pull a black and white THWN-2 and you're done. Terminate indoors in a steel junction box. It's a lot of work but its also 90% of the work. The last one will be somewhat critical, though if you approach the wall at an angle that will make it much less critical, don't select the thru-wall location until the piping has reached it. It's good to either have a pipe vise and a RiDgid threader, or make a couple runs to the hardware store to have pipe threaded to length. It'll allow you to use 2xTHWN-2 instead of expensive UF. Rigid is expensive but this little of it is cheap. You'll need one 10' stick of Rigid, one 90 elbow and possibly one 45. ![]() This is metal pipe plumbing and will require you cut and thread pipe, but you only have to trench 8" (to give 6" cover). Plot out where to put a 45 or 90 bend (45 is better) to get over to the garage. Leave enough meat on it to get a pipe wrench to unscrew it from the coupler.įrom there, trench a little the direction you think the conduit is going, and if the wires are gone you can stick a bit of re-rod in there to confirm direction. Remove the old 90 degree that takes the pipe upwards, and if there's an elbow there you can cut much of it off rather than dig more dirt to swing it. Go as deep as you need to in order to expose the old Rigid conduit. Then run new THWN wire through it easy peasy.ĭig up the area under the old junction box. Enter the garage in the normal way (up the building side then through an LB conduit body). This involves not wasting the long length of Rigid conduit and extending it the extra distance to the garage. But that is only because it involves crafts you are unfamiliar or uncomfortable with. To say this is ungainly is an understatement and I think will cost you more than a new wire pull the entire way. Since you want to go the last 10 feet in direct burial wire, you will need to bury at 24" which means actually 14', and the descent to 2' depth at both ends also needs to be in conduit solely as wire physical protection. Trying to establish a splice point at the old location will be rather difficult and not worth doing given the low cost of wire. It is just too short, since as you say it is spliced immediately upon entering the house. There are no scenarios that allow you to reuse any of the THWN wire that is in the conduit now. I guess you could add an elbow down to 24" on the end of the RMC.īut would that even be compliant? If the pipe doesn't terminate in a box, and isn't really a conduit but just a protective sleeve, is it still allowed to be buried only 6"? That would be a gray area, an inspector may go either way. So the transition from 6" depth to 24" depth would be an issue. However, the depth is an issue the direct burial cable has to be at 24" and the existing conduit is at only 6" depth. You could replace the wires in the conduit with a direct burial cable, and consider the conduit just a protective sleeve this way it doesn't have to terminate in a box. You'd need to make the transition in a box, and the box would have to be accessible. You can bury a splice in a direct burial cable the problem here would be transitioning from wires in conduit to a direct burial cable. You could get a handhole as small as 12" x 12". The usual thing to use is a handhole - like a box where the lid is flush with the ground. You can't bury a junction box - it has to remain accessible. If first option is not feasible - how else can I hide the splice or can I hide the splice whether I can run UF in or out of more RMC? Outdoor waterproof junction box or maybe something like the sprinkler boxes that you can see in the ground? I see 4x4 direct burial j-boxes on HD website - but would like to know code for this and whether owner has to live with this being visible in the lawn!.The current RMC with waterproof splices and run UF wire to where the ![]() What are my options to HIDE this splice/junction point? If I digĭeeper to 12" or 18" (from the j-box to the shed) can I splice into.The owner wants to power a shed/garage ~10 ft away from the current J-box, and wants to BURY the current junction site. The junction box at the end of the run is a 90 that comes straight out of the ground approximately 6" up in the middle of the lawn. ![]() The circuit is 20A and running 12 guage wire. I have an existing rigid metal conduit run from the service panel to a junction box location that was previously powering an outdoor appliance. ![]()
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